They are the exact same beds except for the number of safety rails. The College Loft Bed comes with one safety rail for the front (long) side and an optional one on the back. The Home Loft Bed comes with multiple safety rails (based on the thickness of the mattress) on all four sides and meets the Consumer Products Safety Commission Bunk Bed Guidelines. Mattress not included.
Below: College Loft Bed & Home Loft Bed
Yes. Our loft beds were specifically designed to be used with your existing dorm room bed frame. Most college dorm beds can be disassembled and the spring frame and mattress used on our loft. You remove the headboard and footboard from the existing dorm bed and place the frame and mattress on top of our bed slats. You can store the headboard and footboard behind the loft against the wall and out of the way.
Dorm room bed frames are all different, some have removable ends and some have non-removable short legs. Our loft beds are very flexible with moving around the bed slats to allow you to place your frame on top of the bed slats. If you are unsure about your specific dorm room bed frame then you should order the complete Mattress Foundation Bed Slats and just place the mattress on top of them.
Both beds are very similar as they both provide a loft bed with a desk and multiple shelving. The biggest difference is weight capacity, specifications, sizes, warranty and price.
Weight Capacity: Our bed is designed for youth and adults and has a weight capacity of 1,000 lbs., the whole family can get into our bed for bedtime stories. Our beds are super sturdy and meets the Consumer Products Safety Commission Bunk Bed Guidelines. With our greater weight capacity and heavy duty construction our lofts will last your child from grade school through college and into their first apartment. The PB Teen bed was designed for young children and has a total weight capacity of 200 lbs. which includes the weight of the mattress plus the person. If you are the type of parent that likes to read to their child in bed, you are going to want the increased weight capacity our beds provide.
Specifications: We custom build each bed to your exact specifications so you can use any mattress thickness, any ceiling height and any space above and underneath. We also have taller leg options if you have ceilings greater than 8' you can get more space underneath. The PB Teen bed was designed for an 8' ceiling and the maximum mattress thickness allowed is 7". If your mattress is thicker than 7" then the safety rails will not be at the proper height above the top of the mattress and does not follow the Consumer Products Safety Commission Guidelines. With a very thin mattresses it may become uncomfortable as your child grows.
Sizes Available: Our beds are available in Twin, Full, Queen, King and custom sizes. We can make it any width and length you need. The PB Teen bed comes in full size only.
Warranty: Our beds come with a lifetime warranty and are Made in USA. The PB Teen bed doesn't mention a warranty and their beds are made in China.
Pricing: Our beds are between $700 - $1000 depending on the size and options. The PB Teen bed is nearly $2,000.
Finishes: Our beds are unfinished, have been hand sanded and are ready for paint or stain by the custonmer and may be finished to match any decor. The PB-Teen bed comes finished.
Better Business Bureau A+ Rating We are an Accredited Business with the Better Business Bureau and have the highest reputation with an A+ Rating. We have had no customer complaints in the past 14 years. You can get a BBB report on us by calling the BBB at 716-881-5222. We recommend before you purchase a loft bed from any company that you run a BBB Business Search on them, you will be surprised at what you find. We are also PayPal Verified.
We build and ship everything from our single location in Upstate NY. We don't have any other retail locations and only sell though this website or phone orders.
Please note that if you see our beds on another website it is either a used bed or a scam. We do not sell through: National Furnishing, ABC Home Store, Elite Decor, I-Dollar Store or U-Save More. Those websites are all operated by the same company and have illegally copied our pictures and text from our website and are selling a cheap imitation of our beds and have many complaints against them. We are not affiliated with them.
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After completing installation let the loft sit as the wood glue will take about 2 hours to dry. Do not use or put any pressure on the ladder rungs or loft while the glue is drying. After the wood glue has dried, the loft should be tight and not rock in any direction more than 1/2". If it does rock, try the following. Did you use a cordless drill/screwdriver? Make sure your drive the screws nice and tight, but do not strip the wood. With the 1-1/2" thick softwood, the screws should be recessed about 1/8" to make a tight fit. Try un-screwing them very slowly one at a time and re-tighten slowly. If you use a regular electric drill, make sure it has an adjustable chuck to adjust the tension on the screws, without an adjustable chuck, a regular drill will strip the screws into the wood. If you do strip the wood, you can fill the hole with toothpicks and a little wood glue and give it time to dry, then reinstall the screw.
If the loft rocks more than 1/2", what direction does it move? When standing at the front rail (the long side see diagram below) does it move front to back or left to right (head to foot)? If it moves front to back then the rungs are moving inside the notched legs. Did you coat the inside of the notches with the wood glue we provided? Remember, the wood glue will take about 2 hours to dry. Do not use or put any pressure on the ladder rungs while the glue is drying. Once the glue sets, the rungs and legs will become basically one piece and there should be no movement between them. Try adding a third screw to the rungs in-between the two existing screws, drive it into the wood slowly at an alternating up and down angle. If you have a small drill bit, use it to drill a pilot hole first to prevent the wood from splitting. If it moves left to right (head to foot) then the screws in the front and back rails should be checked. You may add additional screws to the front and back rails, spacing them roughly 3" apart. Also, drive the new screws at an alternating left and right angle, angled screws provides better support. The carriage bolt should be tight and the rounded end should be recessed about 1/16" into the wood. The carriage bolt is primarily used to support the weight and the screws provide the stability. More information is available by viewing our Assembly Instructions.
Example of the rail with more screws to further stabilize the left to right movement.
Yes. Using a 3/8" drill bit you can re-drill holes for the front and back rail at any height you need. You can fill the old hole with a 3/8" wood dowel rod and sand it smooth. To get the height you need you can use our Height Calculator to determine the amount of space you will get underneath the bed slats. See instructions on diagram.
Click photo to enlarge.
Basically you will leave all the pieces that go the width of the bed intact (single and double bookshelf, short desk, short safety rails) and remove all the long pieces (long desk, long safety rails, long shelf, desk shelf). We recommend you remove the bed rails and bed slats as one unit. Remove the carriage bolts and screws and slide it off the end ladders of the bed. Since the end ladders are glued, we recommend you leave them intact. Any safety rails, long desk or long shelves will then need to be removed.
While re-assembling the bed if you strip a screw a trick to make the hole smaller is to fill the hole with wood glue and hammer in a few toothpicks into the hole. Once the glue dries cut off the excess toothpicks and you can re-insert the screw into the hole. You can also change the angle of the screw or move it slightly to go into a new clean section in the wood.
You can slowly remove the screws and remove the rung from the notch. Then recoat the notch with glue and reapply the rung.
Slowly drive the screw half-way into the leg, then unscrew it so it is just comes out of the leg, then drive it all the way back in. The screw should recess about 1/8” into the rung to make a nice tight fit.
If you are having a hard time driving screws into the wood you may want to add soap to the screws. Soap acts as a lubricant and makes driving them into the wood easier. If you hit a knot, screw or a carriage bolt you can drive the screw at a slight angle to miss it.
If you strip a screw into the wood, a trick to make the hole smaller is to fill the hole with wood glue and hammer in a few toothpicks into the hole. Once the glue dries cut off the excess toothpicks and you can re-insert the screw into the hole.
Also try adding a third screw to the rungs in-between the two existing screws, drive it into the wood slowly at an alternating up and down angle. If you have a small drill bit, use it to drill a pilot hole first to prevent the wood from splitting.
No. For assembly, many major cities have Furniture Assembly companies. For example, if you do a Google search for "Furniture Assembly city state" and you put in your city and state, you will find local furniture assembly businesses. For example try: "Furniture Assembly New York City" and you will find a good number of companies. Also try craigslist.com.
We do not have any recommendations for local furniture assemblers.
No, we do not offer painting services. We don't have the facilities for painting which require extensive EPA regulations in dealing with fumes and exhaust. You can usually find a local painter to do it at a reasonable cost.
For the end ladders at each end of the bed, vertical front ladder and the long desk, we recommend you assemble them first before painting or staining them. The rungs of the ladders sometimes are a tight fit and the finish may get marked up during assembly. Also, the wood glue adheres better to unfinished wood. As for the rest of the bed, you can either do it before or after assembly. You get a better finish by doing all the individual pieces first, but it is a pain to paint all the pieces and then lay them down somewhere where it will not mark up the piece or the floor. It is much easier to paint or stain it when it is set up as opposed to all the individual pieces on the floor.
This photo is an example of using the Minwax Polyshades Classic Oak stain.
If you paint it, we recommend you apply a primer coat, and one or two finish coats of a durable enamel paint. For primer and paint, we recommend using Latex (water) based low VOC paint. A primer we recommend is KILZ, which can be purchased at most home improvement stores.
If staining the bed we recommend using a pre-stain first. From the Minwax page: Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner prepares bare wood for staining. It penetrates the grain of the wood to promote uniform acceptance of stains. Treating the surface with Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner helps prevent streaks and blotches by evening out the absorption of stains. It can be applied over any wood but is especially necessary when working with soft or porous woods like pine.
The bed looks good either painted or stained, so we don't have a specific recommendation. You may want to match the existing furniture in the room.
The bed is a very large piece of furniture, if this is your first time doing a staining project, it may be a little overwhelming and I would recommend painting it. Painting is much easier and if you mess it up, it can easily be re-painted. If you stain it and you want it to be very smooth you will need to sand between coats.
Paint: 1 quart Kilz primer, 1 quart latex enamel. Roll it on using a 4" wide High Density Foam Roller (see photo).
Stain: 1 quart of Minwax Polyshades. Apply with a good quality natural bristle brush.
You don't need to but you do get a nicer and smoother finish if you fill them in with wood filler.
We recommend using Elmer's 2-oz Probond Wood Filler-Stainable (Lowes Item #188961 Model #P9030 $2.98).
After drying for a few hours you can then sand the wood filler smooth with 80 grit sandpaper.
Example of a customer's painted bed.
This bed was primed with Kilz Primer and finished with a white enamel paint.
Example of a customer's stained bed.
This bed was stained and clear coated using Minwax Polyshades Classic Oak.